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A Walk on the Wild Side - Orkney's West Coast
Peter, Jackie, Dave, Antje, Malcolm and Ben
Skaill to Stromness 10nm
Amazingly all the weekend forecasts concurred - little or no wind (and that from the east).
Swell forecasts predicted no more than 2 feet swell on the west side.
After the usual car shuttle, 6 kayakers congregated on an unusually calm Skaill beach.
We launched at aroud 2pm
As we rounded the Hole of Row, a bit more swell was noticeable. |  |
We played around a blowhole and explored a few of the bigger caves
The labyrinth of caves at Yesnaby were unfortunately inaccessible due to the swell.
However we said "hello" to a group of climbers there.
No doubt enticed on by the thought of the now traditional BBQ at Bilia Croo, everyone was willing to commit to the next unforgiving section.
A few puffins were sighted in the water, one flying right over my bow.
The huge narrow stack at Black Craig was as impressive as ever.
Bilia Croo was very much welcome when we landed there.
While we pondered how much energy was being created by the Oyster wave generator,
Malcolm added a whole new finesse to our BBQs with his delicious homemade mini kebabs and canapes
Coming out of Bilia Croo, the sea provided a bit of surf to crash through.
Our original plan was to finish at Warbeth where a car had been left, but it emerged that Jackie needed to join the dots between Warbeth and Stromness to complete his circumnavigation of mainland Orkney.
Skaill to Stromness, it now became.
Two of the group then so enjoyed rockhopping that they failed to see one breaker coming in that left them both out of their boats in knee high water!
Although against the neap tide, the final leg was calm and unchallenging finishing up taking a short cut under the pier.
All back in Stromness for 7.30pm.
While cars and kayaks were being reunited, the non-drivers managed a quick pint (on tick it seems) in Stromness!
PJF
Photos by Antje, Jackie and Peter
Paddle Orkney 09 - Trip 3 - Lambs Holm to Newark via Roseness
Sunday 15 August
High winds through the night and gale warnings on Sunday morning led to any trips being deferred to the afternoon.
However, nine kayakers joined the afternoon trip:
Peter Johnny, Sean Helen, Graeme and the four from Belfast Kayak Club - Desi Gordy Phil and ?
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We launched from the south end of the first Churchill Barrier just by the Italian Chapel and picked up a good following sea to Roseness. After a bit of roll practice by one of the Irish guys, we explored some of the caves around Roseness - how many kayaks can you get in a cave.
The Roseness gloup was impressive and we posed for a photo shoot by some walkers. We crossed to the Y cave with the dog leg then on to the narrow cave. With only about 2' clearance at the top of the wave, only a few managed through the narrow cave and not all entirely unscathed! |
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Finally we headed across Dingiehowe and round into Newark where we were met by a welcome party of Sean's family.
About 7.5 nautical miles in all, I made it.
Back to the centre for another delicious meal by Nancy and slide show by Nige |
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Peter Fay
Video from Desi | Pictures from Phil
Paddle Orkney 09 - Trip 2 - Deerness, Newark to Halley
Saturday 15 August
An early discussion led to a decision to take advantage of the weather window before the forecasted high winds. Three waves of kayaks left from Newark for
Halley.
The first wave included Graeme, Yolanda, Phil, Bonar, Penny and Martin and me.
Fortunately the weatherman was fairly off the mark and we saw neither strong winds nor rain while on the water. We even had blue skies and sun once around Mull Head.
We left from the small boats slipway at Newark. Our group headed quite quickly around Point of Ayre, taking in the views across to Copinsay then on past the old Deerness kirk and Sandside Beach. We were kept company by groups of shags on the skerries and a few seals.
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Coming into The Gloup (a collapsed sea cave), our visitors were treated to one of the delights of Orkney paddling "downhill sea kayaking" - a strong optical illusion created by the rock strata. This was further enhanced by a significant easterly swell coming in that day.
The "seal cave" at the Brough of Deerness did not disappoint us - the resident grey seals were there swimming out under us.
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The east side of Mull Head created a bit more of a challenge.
However once rounded, the sea was flat calm.
We continued to explore all the caves along the North East coast of Deerness. We passed the Covenanters Memorial before finishing at Halley beach.
About 8 nautical miles in all. |
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Peter Fay
An Ill-Fated Trip around Shapinsay (with Lessons Learnt)
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May 2009
On Saturday 9 May, Peter , Angus, DaveM, Antje and Romain set off from Craigiefield.
We crossed the String with tail end of east going tide and an 18mph tail wind to pass just south of Heliar Holm.
We continued towards the south coast stopping for a break just short of Ness of Howe.
Once round the south east corner, we encountered a pleasant but big slow tidal swell which took us past north up to Linton Bay.
Here we stopped for a long late lunch (waiting for the tide to slow before the Ness of Ork) and chat with Kenny Meason. The sun only stopped shining when Romain took his cag off!
We continued on in now very pleasant calm conditions to pass a colony of seals before rounding the Ness of Ork.
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Once west of Ness of Ork we encountered some short wind generated chop which was hard work for a short while.
However a short break improved body and weather and we had a pleasant paddle for last 2 miles into Lochend where we camped for the night. The sun continued to shine even while we pitched tents.
Catering was thanks to Angus Romain and Antje!
- For Starters: Assorted savouries with salad
- Main: Steak and sausage with baked potato
- To Finish: Hot apple pie
There were a few wet squalls throught the night. Contrary to the forecast, the wind did not settle completely: there was still a significant nor'westerly.
We dithered and set off later than planned.
We made slow progress to Galt Ness due to the headwind, arriving at gone 9:30.
There appeared to be some flatter water close to the point and Angus and Peter dipped their noses into this.
only to be quickly swept into a very jumbly tidal stream.
Deciding to back off and go back, Peter and Angus collided, resulting in Peter ending up in water a few yards from the shore.
It took a short while to establish a tow to take Peter out of the rough stuff, by which time he had been swept north a considerable way.
Angus's valiant attempts to tow back to slacker water in the lee of the Galt made no headway against a strong tidal stream.
Even after Peter transferred himself to the back of Dave Malcolm's boat, no headway could be made made.
After about 10 minutes non-productive towing, Angus rightly put out a Mayday call on the VHF.
The Mayday call was received not only by the coastguard but also by several nearby vessels.
After a short time, Dave Gentle and crew arrived in a small fishing boat - "Fair Fortune" - pulling Peter out of the water 13 minutes after Mayday call.
A hot cup of coffee was very welcome.
A second fishing boat - "Millennium" - arrived about a minute later to take Peter's kayak on board.
A rescue RIB which had also been launched from the North Isles ferry "Earl Sigurd" followed shortly.
The RIB escorted Dave and Angus in their kayaks back to the shore where Antje and Romain had sensibly taken refuge.
Not long after, the Kirkwall lifeboat arrived and took Peter and kayak on board.
The lifeboat crew kindly offered to take all paddlers and kayaks back to Kirkwall which we gratefully accepted.
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Many thanks to "Fair Fortune", Shetland Coastguard, "Millenium", "Earl Sigurd" and the Kirkwall Lifeboat "Margaret Foster".
Lessons Learnt:
- Correct use of VHF can be lifesaving!
- As stated in our original plan , we should not have tackled the Galt after 9am when tidal flow was into 3rd hour (approaching its maximum spring rate)
- Without a second experienced paddler, the group was in difficulties following Peter's capsize
- A second available towline could have made a big difference (one was around Peter's waist)
- Flares should have been more accessible (they were under hatch in capsized kayak)
- Further rescue practice for all in rougher but safe water would be worthwhile
eg Scapa with onshore wind
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PJF
Bagging Bruck and Bagging Islands
An excellent April weekend:
On Saturday morning, Peter, DaveB, Mary, Lesley, Jackie, Ansgar, Antje and Romain took advantage of the tail end of the westerly neap tide stream to head out to Eynhallow from Evie Sands.
After a quick straighforward crossing, we continued to circumnavigate Eynhallow anticlockwise followed by curious seals. There was a little swell on the westerly side but not enough to prevent the exploration of a few caves before landing back on beach by the RSPB hut.
A visit the monastery (with Oscar) afer lunch then returned to Evie Sands with the beginning of the east going tide. An encounter with a dead seal (with bullet hole) on the beach at Eynhallow was the only low point to the day.
Peter, Mary, Nick, Jenni, Angus, Dennis, Jackie, Ansgar and Maureen met again on Sunday lunchtime to "Bag the Bruck" from Ness slip to the Stromness lifeboat station by foot and by kayak.
In what was now a hot afternoon for Orkney in April, 8 of us continued to cross the tide to Graemsay, landing at the beach on the north side.
Although it was a calm day the east going neap tidal stream ( perhaps 5 knot) added an extra challenge and the well known Jenni whoops were heard.
After a short walk up to Hoy High lighthouse and a brief chat with a couple of Graemsay inhabitants, we returned back to Stromness.
PJF
Ark Royal - Pink Gin or Pink Gun?
On hearing that the Ark Royal was coming to Scapa Flow, an idea sprang to Johnny's mind.
Yes, it was January ... but it could be quite fun to visit her
- we might even get invited on board for a pink gin in the wardroom!
The idea was mooted on the OSKA forum and before long, 3 folk of a similar mind "volunteered",
all who could skive off work on Tuesday 27 January.
The initial weather forecasts were not great,
but the morning of the 27th dawned with sun and a mild South Westerly that was due to die away as the day progressed.
Guided by Orkney Harbours information, Johnny, Peter Dave and Jackie met at Houton
at just after 9am but actually launched from Swanbister.
We were later told that the Ark Royal had been asked to "move on".
We headed straight for the Ark Royal which was now anchored NE of Flotta.
We made good time, despite a detour to avoid the path of the "Samco America".
Cheery waves from the crew initially welcomed us as we approached from the starboard.
However, as we rounded the bow almost within touching distance,
we were politely informed by a lady officer (with gun) that a respectful distance of 500m should be maintained around the "warship".
We deferentially backed a little further away but still managed a few good photos between us.
Quite a few other boats had come to visit, both officially and otherwise.
In addition, there were several small boats decorated with a White Ensign
circulating around the Ark Royal. We chose not to argue with these guys either!
We reckoned that were nearly 20 boats visible on the Flow
After having outstayed our welcome, we decided to visit the "Samco America"
which had now dropped anchor, a couple of miles away.
The crew of the tanker seemed somewhat less interested in our presence
(although it has to be said that to the best of our knowledge they were unarmed). It still looked a very unequal contest between Jackie and the bow of the tanker
Having accomplished our mission (but no pink gin), we headed back to Swanbister,
getting in about 1pm for a refreshing cuppa from our flasks.
A WINTERY TRIP TO SHAPINSAY
After several weeks of
rather unpleasant Orcadian weather, a steady low over the
islands for a few days brought some light snow, heavy
frost and almost NO wind (unheard of!). Having spent
Friday looking longingly out the college window at an
unusually calm Kirkwall Bay, the Met Office confirmed
that the weather would still be reasonable for a trip out
on Saturday morning and I would be able to use my pogies
for the first time (pre-emptively purchased in Tiso in
August!). My (geek's) weather station told me that it was
minus 1 degrees on Saturday morning, there was a thick
frost on the car and garden, but the sun was shining and
there was still almost NO wind.
Peter had suggested a
trip to Shapinsay as the tides of The String would permit
a nice easy crossing. This seemed like a delightful idea
and as I had missed the last paddle to Shapinsay due to
an attack of the dreaded lurgy, I was keen to visit this
island for the first time.
Having gathered up the new Avocet, henceforth know as
Avril, debated exactly what you do wear to paddle when
it's minus 1 and defrosted Peter's kayak, Angus, Peter
and I launched from Craigiefield with the sun shining and
a light wind in our faces. The islands to the north west
and hills above Firth looked pretty with a light covering
of snow, while a mirage made a gap appear between islands
that wasn't really there...
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We paddled up the east side
of Kirkwall Bay and between Thieves Holm and the
mainland, keeping a careful eye out for the Shapinsay (it
may have virtually no draft, but it can still squash a
kayak!). We saw a little motorboat and despite my initial
worry that my days were numbered, he passed well behind
us with a cheery wave. The tide was slack as we crossed
the string so we had an easy passage across towards
Balfour Castle, then east along to the douche (which I
didn't visit, alone or otherwise!). We then rounded the
headland a turned into the village bay, cutting under the
pier round the back of the Shapinsay. On approach to the
shore we saw a gang of seals who seemed rather intrigued
by the funny people in boats and landed near the Martello
tower. In an attempt to deny that it is now 'out of
season' we eagerly hot footed it round to the Smiddy for
a bowl of soup and a large piece of CAKE. Unfortunately
it was shut. So we picnicked instead by the boats, drank
tea and ate CAKE. I liked Shapinsay and its estate
parafanalia and particularly the spiral stair case to the
toilets! I look forward to a return visit in the summer
to see the castle and to have TWO slices of CAKE. |
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On return to the boats, I
was surprised to see that Dennis and Jackie had appeared,
no longer in matching boats but wearing matching outfits!
Jackie had his new P&H boat, a lovely number
in.....you've guessed it.... YELLOW and both boys were
wearing their new Lomo drysuits, looking very warm as
they did so! |
The 5 of us headed back towards Kirkwall, now covered by
rather ominous clouds and apparent hail showers, by going round
the east of Helliar Holm. As we approached we saw a flash of
lightening over the island but thunder told us the storm was
quite far away. The tide was now beginning to run west and we had
to push a little as we crossed the shallows and rounded the north
east corner of Helliar Holm. As the poorer weather came in, the
wind began to increase a little and with the westerly tide, we
had a slightly more interesting trip down the east of the Holm.
We paused to let a small fishing boat past before aiming for the
sewage works and then letting the tide push us back towards
Theives Holm. Back down the coast to Craigiefield we saw the
Shapinsay heading back out to the island before letting the now
stronger wind push us back down the coast with a little bit of
surfing. Despite the darkening clouds and the showers falling all
around us, we missed a wetting and landed without incident.
Avril played beautifully, although clearly she has less room
for CAKE than the banana barge. There was initial concern that
the flask and cake wouldn't both fit in the day hatch but this
fear was alleviated by a spot of careful packing. The skeg (once
defrosted) was so smooth I would have refused to believe the knob
served any function had the boat not started tracking straighter!
It was also nice to be able to turn with little effort. I would
recommend Nick try it, if he were able to get in....
An enjoyable padddle and really nice to take advantage of a
lull in the weather.
MS
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