Trip Diaries

Orkney Sea Kayaking Association

A Walk on the Wild Side - Orkney's West Coast

Peter, Jackie, Dave, Antje, Malcolm and Ben
Skaill to Stromness 10nm

Amazingly all the weekend forecasts concurred - little or no wind (and that from the east). Swell forecasts predicted no more than 2 feet swell on the west side. After the usual car shuttle, 6 kayakers congregated on an unusually calm Skaill beach. We launched at aroud 2pm As we rounded the Hole of Row, a bit more swell was noticeable.

We played around a blowhole and explored a few of the bigger caves

The labyrinth of caves at Yesnaby were unfortunately inaccessible due to the swell.
However we said "hello" to a group of climbers there.

No doubt enticed on by the thought of the now traditional BBQ at Bilia Croo, everyone was willing to commit to the next unforgiving section.
A few puffins were sighted in the water, one flying right over my bow.
The huge narrow stack at Black Craig was as impressive as ever.

Bilia Croo was very much welcome when we landed there.
While we pondered how much energy was being created by the Oyster wave generator,
Malcolm added a whole new finesse to our BBQs with his delicious homemade mini kebabs and canapes
Coming out of Bilia Croo, the sea provided a bit of surf to crash through.

Our original plan was to finish at Warbeth where a car had been left, but it emerged that Jackie needed to join the dots between Warbeth and Stromness to complete his circumnavigation of mainland Orkney. Skaill to Stromness, it now became.

Two of the group then so enjoyed rockhopping that they failed to see one breaker coming in that left them both out of their boats in knee high water!

Although against the neap tide, the final leg was calm and unchallenging finishing up taking a short cut under the pier.

All back in Stromness for 7.30pm.

While cars and kayaks were being reunited, the non-drivers managed a quick pint (on tick it seems) in Stromness!

PJF
Photos by Antje, Jackie and Peter

An Ill-Fated Trip around Shapinsay (with Lessons Learnt)

May 2009 On Saturday 9 May, Peter , Angus, DaveM, Antje and Romain set off from Craigiefield. We crossed the String with tail end of east going tide and an 18mph tail wind to pass just south of Heliar Holm. We continued towards the south coast stopping for a break just short of Ness of Howe. Once round the south east corner, we encountered a pleasant but big slow tidal swell which took us past north up to Linton Bay. Here we stopped for a long late lunch (waiting for the tide to slow before the Ness of Ork) and chat with Kenny Meason. The sun only stopped shining when Romain took his cag off! We continued on in now very pleasant calm conditions to pass a colony of seals before rounding the Ness of Ork.
Once west of Ness of Ork we encountered some short wind generated chop which was hard work for a short while. However a short break improved body and weather and we had a pleasant paddle for last 2 miles into Lochend where we camped for the night. The sun continued to shine even while we pitched tents. Catering was thanks to Angus Romain and Antje! For Starters: Assorted savouries with salad Main: Steak and sausage with baked potato To Finish: Hot apple pie There were a few wet squalls throught the night. Contrary to the forecast, the wind did not settle completely: there was still a significant nor'westerly. We dithered and set off later than planned. We made slow progress to Galt Ness due to the headwind, arriving at gone 9:30. There appeared to be some flatter water close to the point and Angus and Peter dipped their noses into this. only to be quickly swept into a very jumbly tidal stream. Deciding to back off and go back, Peter and Angus collided, resulting in Peter ending up in water a few yards from the shore. It took a short while to establish a tow to take Peter out of the rough stuff, by which time he had been swept north a considerable way. Angus's valiant attempts to tow back to slacker water in the lee of the Galt made no headway against a strong tidal stream. Even after Peter transferred himself to the back of Dave Malcolm's boat, no headway could be made made. After about 10 minutes non-productive towing, Angus rightly put out a Mayday call on the VHF. The Mayday call was received not only by the coastguard but also by several nearby vessels. After a short time, Dave Gentle and crew arrived in a small fishing boat - "Fair Fortune" - pulling Peter out of the water 13 minutes after Mayday call. A hot cup of coffee was very welcome. A second fishing boat - "Millennium" - arrived about a minute later to take Peter's kayak on board. A rescue RIB which had also been launched from the North Isles ferry "Earl Sigurd" followed shortly. The RIB escorted Dave and Angus in their kayaks back to the shore where Antje and Romain had sensibly taken refuge. Not long after, the Kirkwall lifeboat arrived and took Peter and kayak on board. The lifeboat crew kindly offered to take all paddlers and kayaks back to Kirkwall which we gratefully accepted.
Many thanks to "Fair Fortune", Shetland Coastguard, "Millenium", "Earl Sigurd" and the Kirkwall Lifeboat "Margaret Foster". Lessons Learnt: Correct use of VHF can be lifesaving! As stated in our original plan , we should not have tackled the Galt after 9am when tidal flow was into 3rd hour (approaching its maximum spring rate) Without a second experienced paddler, the group was in difficulties following Peter's capsize A second available towline could have made a big difference (one was around Peter's waist) Flares should have been more accessible (they were under hatch in capsized kayak) Further rescue practice for all in rougher but safe water would be worthwhile eg Scapa with onshore wind

PJF

Bagging Bruck and Bagging Islands

An excellent April weekend:

On Saturday morning, Peter, DaveB, Mary, Lesley, Jackie, Ansgar, Antje and Romain took advantage of the tail end of the westerly neap tide stream to head out to Eynhallow from Evie Sands. After a quick straighforward crossing, we continued to circumnavigate Eynhallow anticlockwise followed by curious seals. There was a little swell on the westerly side but not enough to prevent the exploration of a few caves before landing back on beach by the RSPB hut. A visit the monastery (with Oscar) afer lunch then returned to Evie Sands with the beginning of the east going tide. An encounter with a dead seal (with bullet hole) on the beach at Eynhallow was the only low point to the day.

Peter, Mary, Nick, Jenni, Angus, Dennis, Jackie, Ansgar and Maureen met again on Sunday lunchtime to "Bag the Bruck" from Ness slip to the Stromness lifeboat station by foot and by kayak.

In what was now a hot afternoon for Orkney in April, 8 of us continued to cross the tide to Graemsay, landing at the beach on the north side. Although it was a calm day the east going neap tidal stream ( perhaps 5 knot) added an extra challenge and the well known Jenni whoops were heard. After a short walk up to Hoy High lighthouse and a brief chat with a couple of Graemsay inhabitants, we returned back to Stromness.

PJF

Ark Royal - Pink Gin or Pink Gun?

On hearing that the Ark Royal was coming to Scapa Flow, an idea sprang to Johnny's mind. Yes, it was January ... but it could be quite fun to visit her - we might even get invited on board for a pink gin in the wardroom! The idea was mooted on the OSKA forum and before long, 3 folk of a similar mind "volunteered", all who could skive off work on Tuesday 27 January. The initial weather forecasts were not great, but the morning of the 27th dawned with sun and a mild South Westerly that was due to die away as the day progressed.

Guided by Orkney Harbours information, Johnny, Peter Dave and Jackie met at Houton at just after 9am but actually launched from Swanbister. We were later told that the Ark Royal had been asked to "move on". We headed straight for the Ark Royal which was now anchored NE of Flotta. We made good time, despite a detour to avoid the path of the "Samco America". Cheery waves from the crew initially welcomed us as we approached from the starboard. However, as we rounded the bow almost within touching distance, we were politely informed by a lady officer (with gun) that a respectful distance of 500m should be maintained around the "warship". We deferentially backed a little further away but still managed a few good photos between us.

Quite a few other boats had come to visit, both officially and otherwise. In addition, there were several small boats decorated with a White Ensign circulating around the Ark Royal. We chose not to argue with these guys either! We reckoned that were nearly 20 boats visible on the Flow

After having outstayed our welcome, we decided to visit the "Samco America" which had now dropped anchor, a couple of miles away. The crew of the tanker seemed somewhat less interested in our presence (although it has to be said that to the best of our knowledge they were unarmed). It still looked a very unequal contest between Jackie and the bow of the tanker

Having accomplished our mission (but no pink gin), we headed back to Swanbister, getting in about 1pm for a refreshing cuppa from our flasks.

A WINTERY TRIP TO SHAPINSAY

After several weeks of rather unpleasant Orcadian weather, a steady low over the islands for a few days brought some light snow, heavy frost and almost NO wind (unheard of!). Having spent Friday looking longingly out the college window at an unusually calm Kirkwall Bay, the Met Office confirmed that the weather would still be reasonable for a trip out on Saturday morning and I would be able to use my pogies for the first time (pre-emptively purchased in Tiso in August!). My (geek's) weather station told me that it was minus 1 degrees on Saturday morning, there was a thick frost on the car and garden, but the sun was shining and there was still almost NO wind. Peter had suggested a trip to Shapinsay as the tides of The String would permit a nice easy crossing. This seemed like a delightful idea and as I had missed the last paddle to Shapinsay due to an attack of the dreaded lurgy, I was keen to visit this island for the first time. Having gathered up the new Avocet, henceforth know as Avril, debated exactly what you do wear to paddle when it's minus 1 and defrosted Peter's kayak, Angus, Peter and I launched from Craigiefield with the sun shining and a light wind in our faces. The islands to the north west and hills above Firth looked pretty with a light covering of snow, while a mirage made a gap appear between islands that wasn't really there...
We paddled up the east side of Kirkwall Bay and between Thieves Holm and the mainland, keeping a careful eye out for the Shapinsay (it may have virtually no draft, but it can still squash a kayak!). We saw a little motorboat and despite my initial worry that my days were numbered, he passed well behind us with a cheery wave. The tide was slack as we crossed the string so we had an easy passage across towards Balfour Castle, then east along to the douche (which I didn't visit, alone or otherwise!). We then rounded the headland a turned into the village bay, cutting under the pier round the back of the Shapinsay. On approach to the shore we saw a gang of seals who seemed rather intrigued by the funny people in boats and landed near the Martello tower. In an attempt to deny that it is now 'out of season' we eagerly hot footed it round to the Smiddy for a bowl of soup and a large piece of CAKE. Unfortunately it was shut. So we picnicked instead by the boats, drank tea and ate CAKE. I liked Shapinsay and its estate parafanalia and particularly the spiral stair case to the toilets! I look forward to a return visit in the summer to see the castle and to have TWO slices of CAKE.
	On return to the boats, I was surprised to see that Dennis and Jackie had appeared, no longer in matching boats but wearing matching outfits! Jackie had his new P&H boat, a lovely number in.....you've guessed it.... YELLOW and both boys were wearing their new Lomo drysuits, looking very warm as they did so!

The 5 of us headed back towards Kirkwall, now covered by rather ominous clouds and apparent hail showers, by going round the east of Helliar Holm. As we approached we saw a flash of lightening over the island but thunder told us the storm was quite far away. The tide was now beginning to run west and we had to push a little as we crossed the shallows and rounded the north east corner of Helliar Holm. As the poorer weather came in, the wind began to increase a little and with the westerly tide, we had a slightly more interesting trip down the east of the Holm. We paused to let a small fishing boat past before aiming for the sewage works and then letting the tide push us back towards Theives Holm. Back down the coast to Craigiefield we saw the Shapinsay heading back out to the island before letting the now stronger wind push us back down the coast with a little bit of surfing. Despite the darkening clouds and the showers falling all around us, we missed a wetting and landed without incident.

Avril played beautifully, although clearly she has less room for CAKE than the banana barge. There was initial concern that the flask and cake wouldn't both fit in the day hatch but this fear was alleviated by a spot of careful packing. The skeg (once defrosted) was so smooth I would have refused to believe the knob served any function had the boat not started tracking straighter! It was also nice to be able to turn with little effort. I would recommend Nick try it, if he were able to get in....

An enjoyable padddle and really nice to take advantage of a lull in the weather.

MS

Coastguard Talk and Flare Demonstration

30 August 2008

Dave Phillips (Kayak and Canoe liaison officer for Shetland Coastguard and also an active member of Shetland Canoe Club) gave an interesting and informative talk on the Coastguard and Kayak safety. It was organised by OSKA and attended by members of OSKA and Kirkwall Kayak Club.

This included:

• Methods of contacting the coastguard (VHF radio, mobile phones, electronic beacons, flares etc.).
• VHF, voice procedure, legal requirements, range of radios Dispelling the myth that all coastguard aerials are fitted with a directional finding equipment.
• Review of several kayak incidents handled by coastguards this year and see if any lessons can be learnt.
• Services available from the coastguard such as Maritime Safety Information broadcasts, medilink calls ie what the coastguard can do for people.
• Roles of Coastguard Rescue Officers (formerly known as the auxiliary service), Sector Managers and canoe/kayak liaison officers.
• Possible future of HM Coastguard and how people may or not be affected.
• Press reports or why coastguard do report incidents to the press.
• CG66 Safety Identification Scheme

An outdoor session on flare usage followed. Safe effective use of rocket flares, orange smoke and hand held flares were all demonstrated. There was an opportunity for all of us to let off live flares. Notifying various agencies and a security announcement on marine VHF preceded the session.

PJF

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Triathlon Marshalling 30 August 2008 An early start for OSKA on at 07:45 on Saturday morning (and yes, there WAS a 3 line whip put out!) but 10 paddlers all reported in as promised. With a southerly coming straight into Scapa, there was a little choppiness although this settled somewhat by the time of the race start. Angus (the man with the conspicuous shiny brand new kayak!) led the 17 swimmers around the 2 laps of a triangular course within Scapa bay, Lesley and Peter took up the rear with the rest flanking the swimmers. As in previous 2 years the swimmers became quite spread out as the race progressed and low sunlight contributed to direction finding problems for quite a few swimmers. Several swimmers had to be "persuaded" that heading to Flotta was not part of the deal. With heads immersed, shouting at the swimmers often did not get through. Sometimes, the only effective manoevre was to blockade the swimmer by positioning kayak across the swimmer's errant path. Another issue with an onshore wind was that kayaks were often moving faster than the swimmers, necessitating a fair bit of backpaddling to stay alongside the swimmers. All competitors completed the 1900m course safely, to continue on with the 90k cycle and 21k run.
PJF	Orkney Triathlon Club

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The F in Fog Thursday 5 June The exercise had been cancelled by the lifeboat crew (Jeck was devastated!). It was, however, a beautiful calm and sunny day so we agreed to meet up, as planned, immediately after work. At this point someone suggested that, as we were no longer constrained by the lifeboat exercise and it was such a lovely evening, we could perhaps do something a little bit more ... 9 kayaks launched from Mill Sands across several miles of seaweed (or so it seemed at the time) at just before 6pm. Johnny was resplendent in his brand new skyblue and white Eddyline kayak. The water was lovely and we made across for Mull Head hitting the shoreline again close to Halley. The journey was idyllic and we were in no hurry. We explored the north coastline of Deerness in detail, popping in and out of every geo and cave. Then, just before getting to Mull Head - the haar came in, came in good and proper, a real pea souper. 2 of us were separated from the rest of the group at this point but soon gained a fix on a well kent pair of vocal cords! The group now reunited, we realised that we were getting hungry (yes, we had come out before tea intending a short paddle). Emergency chocolate rations then came in handy before setting a course back. The sun filtering through the sea mist made some interesting visual effects. We had got a deck compass (but no map). Our estimated bearing of due West would not have been far off the mark. However, we were understandably unkeen to to let the shoreline get out of sight. After exchanging greetings with a Dutch yacht, and land ahead we decided that Mill Sands was to the port side. We eventually heard the sound of cars on the main road and realised we had strayed south and were by the old Toab school at the Bay of Suckquoy. We were a little off track. We turned around closely following the coastline back to Mill Sands getting back at after 10pm. The detour had cost us an extra 4 miles. The one silver lining was that the tide was now right in and there was no portage at the end of the day. Home for tea. Johnny and Peter agreed on a plan to tell their respective wives that it was all the other's fault, a plan doomed to failure.

PJF (with subtitle by JJ)

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Lamb Rescue

Tuesday 29 April 2008 Tuesday arrived bright and clear after the heavy rain on the Monday. That evening, 8 kayaks headed out from Inganess to the Head of Holland. After a straightforward pleasant paddle out, we rounded the Head where we were surprised to find a young lamb and ewe at the foot of the sandstone cliffs. Sadly the ewe was dead -probably having fallen from the cliff. The orphaned lamb was left on the rocks at the bottom of the cliff without any apparent way to get back up again. We considered the situation - without help the lamb was unlikely to survive. So Johnny Johnston went ashore to retrieve the lamb which was then placed in the back of Matt Orchard's kayak. Matt then paddled a few hundred yards further round to a point where both he and the lamb could get back up to the fields above. Mission accomplished, we took a brief look in to the Bay of Meil before returning to Inganess with the setting sun - a pleasant and hopefully worthwhile evening. Interesting question was whether lamb was born before or after the fall.

PJF

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Shetland Canoe Club Visit 2007

Weekend July 21-22 2007

This was the first SCC trip down to join OSKA. Tom (+ Norma), Tam, Julia, Jane, Rachel, Lorraine, Laura, Daniel & Mike arrived on the ferry on Friday night met by Chris & Peter at Hatston to camp at Pickaquoy.

Along with Kirsty and Ruth, we met up at 9am the following morning with a NE 4. We headed up to Birsay having left one car at Warbeth beach (near Stromness). Weather was sunny with no significant swell. 13 Kayaks launched from by the Brough of Birsay heading south where we explored a cave or two before rounding Marwick Head. Fiona, equipped with a camera and telephoto lens, was waiting for us at the Kitchener Memorial and got a few great aerial phototographs of the kayaks passing beneath.

We continued on past Marwick Bay and on to Skara Brae, a neolithic village, on Skaill beach where we stopped for lunch meeting with Fiona againin. After lunch, we continued south to explore dramatic cliffs and caves of Yesnaby where Mike provided Chris with a bit of rescue practice. We exchanged greetings with some climbers on Yesnaby Castle. The stack of Black Craig appeared very dramatic as we continued on towards Stromness. Turning east into Hoy Sound, we felt the tide against us particularly at the end of a long day. Most of us finished the paddle at Warbeth beach whilst Tam Jules & Jane continued to Stromness.

After retrieval of cars and kayaks, we concluded the day by enjoying a meal together at the Orkney Hotel. Kye, Jenni and Fiona joined us for the meal although they couldn't make the paddle. Some rain fell overnight, but only whilst we were asleep in our beds in tents.

On Sunday, the same group, with the addition of Johnny, headed east and launched from Newark heading for Copinsay. We had an easy trip across in sun and light winds. Continuing the circumnavigation around the far side, we encountered a bit more more exciting clapotis. We stopped back at the beach walking to the lighthouse for lunch. It was then we had a demonstration of Pilates on top of the cliff by Ruth and Laura (possibly a new extreme sport). Again an easy trip back to Newark, where Ruth and Laura couldn't resist a quick swim.

Before the visitors were seen back to the ferry, Food wine and a kayaking slideshow rounded off the weekend at Kye and Fiona's house. A most enjoyable weekend, hopefully the first of many such visits ...

Pictures

PJF

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Exercise with RNLI August 2006

8 kayaks set out at 6pm from Finstown on a pre arranged exercise with the Kirkwall lifeboat and Shetland coastguard.
Shortly after 7pm we rafted up west of Quanterness , estimated our position and radioed the Shetland coastguard on a pre arranged VHF channel.
The scenario was that one of our number was having an acute asthmatic attack and had no medication so requiring urgent evacuation. All 8 kayaks were rafted together and paddles were raised to increase visibility. We were able to communicate directly by VHF radio with the lifeboat, RNLB Margaret Foster, as it approached. Although visibility was good, the lifeboat crew acquired a radio fix on our VHF signal which allowed them to set a precise course for the group. The lifeboat inflatable was launched shortly before reaching us. The approach of the lifeboat was awe inspiring but the effect of the boat's wake was well shielded from us. The Margaret Foster then drew alongside our rafted kayaks whilst their inflatable kept watch from the other side. Several kayaks peeled off the kayak raft to bring the kayak of the "casualty" alongside the lifeboat. The "casualty" was then winched onto the lifeboat using a hoist. Another kayaker was also hoisted aboard to accompany the casualty (and enjoy the ride). Kayak to kayak tow lines were attached to the empty kayaks. The "Margaret Foster" returned to Kirkwall with the "rescued" pair. The remaining 6 paddlers returned to Finstown towing with the two empty kayaks in tow.

Rafting 8 kayaks together and raising a paddle vertically increased our visibility to 1.5 miles on radar and with binoculars.

Thanks to both the Shetland Coastguard watch and Kirkwall Lifeboat crew for their help in this fun and useful event.

Exercise with the RNLI June 2005

Inganess Bay - 4 paddlers all in water - kayaks and paddlers all rescued by lifeboat and returned to Kirkwall

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